THE HOMESAFE FIRESIDE E-NEWSLETTER MAILING LIST
THE FIRESIDE E-NEWSLETTER #003 - DEC. 21, 1996
FIRESIDE e-NEWS #003 - December 21, 1996
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FROM : Mike Bragg
TO: FIRESIDE List Members
RE: HomeSafe FIRESIDE e-Newsletter #003 - Dec.19, 1996Thank you for your interest in the FIRESIDE e-Newsletter (FeN). Youare receiving this e-mail as requested from our web site.
This is our third newsletter - so please tell us what you think. Sendall comments and ideas to fen@homesafe.com
Enjoy - and safe burning - if you like the FeN please tell your friends, family, and favorite search engine!
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From the Editor :
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Thank you once again for your interest in my little FIRESIDE e-Newsletter (FeN). This issue will be sent out just before the holidays, so I wanted to take a minute to wish you and your family a safe and Merry Christmas!
In this issue I uncover a few common SCAMS some people like to "put-over" on unsuspecting homeowners. These crooks rely on homeowners being unaware of the scams - so we're going to "bust the lid" off of a few of the more common ones.
Also there are two good pieces on safety - one on woodstoves and the other on maintaining clearances. I hope you find both of them useful.
If you have any ideas / requests for future content - please feel free to send them directly to me.
Stay safe - Stay warm.
Mike Bragg
mbragg@homesafe.com===
CONTENTS:
1. Scam Artists - Some "Sweeps" Are Up To NO Good
2. Insert-Style Woodstove Safety Considerations
3. Maintaining Clearances All Winter Long===
SCAM ARTISTS - SOME "SWEEPS" ARE UP TO NO GOOD
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It's sad but true - there are people out there eager to take advantage of homeowners who don't fully understand their chimney venting system.
It happens all of the time - and sometimes by the "big" established company's as well as the fly-by-night "sweeps" who emerge each October for the "Fall Rush" of the chimney sweeping business.
And don't count on the industry to bring this information to you - they are usually not interested. Even the organizations who monitor and aspire to represent the average sweep wont get involved - for whatever reason is not clear to most of us making our living atop the roofs. (We want the crooks stopped - they give us all a bad name and endanger or rip-off homeowners)
SO - I'm going to run through a few of the scams I know of, and explain how you can protect yourself from these criminals - and what you can do if you feel you've been "had".
THE QUICKIE
While there are many experienced chimney sweeps in this country who can blast through a fireplace or woodstove cleaning in less than 45 mins. - and do a good job of it - there are few honest sweeps who would spend less than 15 minutes cleaning your system.
But at least once or twice a week I hear from new customers I am servicing that "The other guy was in and out in 10 mins last year - what's taking so long?" I give them a puzzled look and ask them who did the job last year in ten minutes...it's not surprising the same names come up over and over.
The scam is simple - the guy is only doing half the job - usually running up to the roof and sweeping the chimney down, then brushing the firebox area (this is the part of the fireplace you can easily see), vacuuming up the ash, billing you, then leaving for the next job.
The problem is - he never touched the part of the fireplace which is both the hardest to clean and potentially the most dangerous to you - the smoke chamber.
The smoke chamber is the area of most fireplaces just above the damper - described as an "upside-down funnel" which helps guide the smoke and draft up to the bottom of the chimney flue. This is a big area in most cases, and it is where most of the creosote both forms during use, and settles after he swept the actual chimney down.
Immediately behind the damper is a part of the smoke chamber called a smoke shelf - and creosote accumulates on this shelf, which is hard to clean without REMOVING the damper. (It can be done w/o removing the damper, but requires a long reach with a shop-vac hose)
"REMOVE THE DAMPER? -- He NEVER removed the damper? I didn't know it came out?" is often the reply I hear. It's true, the damper on many fireplaces can be removed so that you can easily get into the smoke chamber for a good cleaning. But this takes time, and trouble, and con-men don't like to spend either.
I have cleaned some fireplaces that where supposedly "swept" for the past 5 years by the same company, who "did a good job" in the homeowner's opinion - until I pulled pounds and pounds of dangerous creosote off of the smoke shelf. (In one case I pulled over 60 pounds of creosote from behind one damper on an insert woodstove installation)
And this is not just a simple dereliction of duty - it's a very hazardous condition - as the smoke chamber is where MOST chimney fires originate from - and with a pile of fuel (creosote) sitting there - the potential for a disastrous fire is greatly increased. It's VERY important to clean the smoke chamber for this reason alone. Clean chimneys don't burn.
Other reasons to make sure that the smoke chamber and smoke shelf are cleaned is that nasty "chimney breath" odor you may smell on humid or damp days - it's the water in the air mixing with the creosote, giving off the stench. Clean chimneys stink less.
HOW TO TELL your smoke chamber has been cleaned is to (1) Ask the sweep about it - did you clean it, how's it look, what about the smoke shelf? (2) Sit and watch the sweep while he's doing the inside work - is the damper out or is he reaching way up in there cleaning out the creosote? (3) Open the damper and use a flash-light to look up into the smoke chamber yourself (Watch your eyes! Soot can fall if even barely touched - goggles are a GREAT idea.) You should be able to clearly see the brick or mortar which makes up your smoke chamber - they will probably be blackened - but not shiny or covered in soot. If you are really questioning the work, get an inspection mirror and look behind the damper - or reach a brave hand over the damper - and see if there is a pile of creosote there.
While no-one can get every ounce of creosote out of a chimney - an honest sweep using the right equipment and taking some time - can make the system ready for use in a relatively short time - but NOT in 10 minutes.
THE BAIT AND HOOK
This is a typical scam. Offering an unbelievably cheap "sweep" rate, the crook gets his/her foot in the door (so to speak) and does a "quickie" sweep - then tells you you need a bunch of repairs or products at very high prices.
The best protection is to call several area companies to see what the general "going" rate is in your area. Now there will always be a cheap sweep and an expensive sweep in each area, but it will give you the "feel" of what an average sweep costs in your area. Find someone you're comfortable with, and hire him.
Also, you should ALWAYS get a second opinion before spending a bunch of money with a contractor you do not yet know and trust. Sometimes the repairs are needed - but sometimes it's a total rip-off scam, and you'll be lining the pockets of the crook without truly benefiting in any way.
THE PRESSURE COOKER
A variation on the bait scam involves two crooks - one keeping you busy while the other one goes about his business - only to appear in front of you with a mysterious "broken brick" or piece of mortar - and you need a repair NOW - they have the stuff on the truck - ready to go - 'cause you need it "RIGHT NOW".
There are almost NO chimney repairs which need to be done "RIGHT NOW!" If in doubt, turn off the furnace and don't light the fireplace or woodstove - don't USE the chimney - and get a second opinion.
Crooks use scare tactics to pressure people into expensive repairs - sad to say they almost always pull this one on folks who are in poor health and/or are afraid of fire or carbon monoxide.
Always get a second opinion on PRESSURE SALES.
WHAT TO DO IF YOU FEEL "TAKEN"
Get as much information as you can on the company and individuals who scammed you - and write it all down. Call the OWNER of the company and tell him what you were not happy with - sometimes this is the quickest and easiest way to correct any problems.
If you still are not satisfied - approach the Better Business Bureau and/or your State Contractors Licensing Board - usually within your State Department of Labor or Taxation. File complaints with these offices, as it is their jobs to "police" the people whom they license.
Get in touch with the people at your State Chimney Sweep Guild - look in the phone book white pages, or call the National Guild at (301)963-6900 to get the local Guild's number and a contact name. (However, not all states have active guilds). The crook may or may not be a member of the Guild - either way the complaint can be filed there.
Also draft a letter clearly explaining the situation and crooks involved, and send it to the National Chimney Sweep Guild at 16201 Industrial Drive, Suite 8, Gaithersburg, MD 20877. Sometime the crook in question may be either a member of the National Guild or a Certified Chimney Sweep (tm) - in which case you will want to note that in the letter.
In the past, with all of these organizations and regulators, the response is to file the complaint on record, and that's about it. If you feel that you have been criminally wronged - approach your State's Attorneys Office with the same information and request an investigation of the business in question. If the State's Attorney's hear from enough people about the same problem, they may do something about it.
In the end is still "buyer beware" - by learning all that you can about your chimney, fireplace, woodstove and furnace - you can protect yourself and your family from the potential hazards associated with those systems - including "crooked" service people.
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INSERT STYLE WOODSTOVES - SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS
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During the energy crisis of the 1970's the popularity of "insert" styled woodstoves soared. Americans wanted to find a way to cut the ties to foreign fuel (which is still a smart move) without spending a lot of money in the process.
The fireplace insert woodstove was an attractive alternative to that drafty, inefficient fireplace that almost every home had in it. The woodstove is designed to fit inside the fireplace, with a large metal "surround" covering the gap between the stove and the fireplace opening.
It was quickly determined that these stoves had some unique problems with creosote build-up other stoves didn't - basically - they made a lot more.
The problem with the insert woodstove just "slammed" into the fireplace is that almost always the chimney is too large to properly vent the stove. Even if the chimney is close to the right size, the firebox and smoke chamber are MUCH too oversized for efficient venting.
The effect on the smoke leaving the hot stove through the 6" or 8" vent collar, into the large firebox and smoke chamber is that the smoke slows down, cools, and "wafts" around for a while until finally being drawn out of the chimney by the ever-cooling smoke above it.
This is called "an increased latency period" - or - the smoke's not moving up and out fast enough.
Creosote condenses out of smoke as it cools like water vapor condenses out of air when it is cooled. As this creosote cools and collects on all surfaces of the chimney - it forms a glazed "enamel" of creosote - which is especially difficult to remove, as it must be mechanically chipped away. It's also highly flammable - like all wood-burning creosote is.
The key to efficient venting is to keep the smoke hot and keep it moving up and out of your home - and this involves properly sized and insulated chimneys - both of which are lacking in "slammer" installations. But these stoves can be fitted with new liners designed to fit the woodstove perfectly - although this can be an expensive proposition.
Regular cleaning and he use of creosote-inhibiting sprays (I prefer, and always recommend, Anti-Creo-Soot* or "ACS" - IMHO there is no equal product on the market) can reduce the danger of "slammers". The spray works to break down creosote as it forms, making cleaning more effective as the formerly "glazed" creosote is turned to regular creosote which can be brushed away with normal methods.
Another problem with the insert woodstoves is that they often stick out onto the hearth, or even hang over the hearth - not meeting the proper clearances to combustibles. The hearth can be extended, or a manufactured "hearth-extenders" can be used to gain the needed protection.
And as will all woodstove, you shouldn't over-load the stove or dampen-down the air inlets to prolong the burn. This practice keep the fire from burning efficiently, and will necessitate much more frequent cleanings to keep up with the creosote production.
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* "ACS" can be purchased at most stove shops - in 1 quart or 1 gallon containers. Prices should be right around $10-$15 per quart. If you cannot find a retailer, call Combustion Improvers Co., Inc (the manufacturer) directly at 1-603-863-6416 and ask for a retailer near you.
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MAINTAINING CLEARANCES ALL WINTER LONG
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If you heat with wood, hopefully you have already had the system cleaned and have been using it for a while. It's easy to get comfortable with the fireplace or woodstove - it almost becomes a friend on those cold winter mornings when it's cold enough to make you wonder why you want to get out of bed.
It's possible to become too comfortable - and it only takes one mistake to create a hazardous situation.
One of the most common is the lack of safe clearances around your fireplace or woodstove. Over the weeks, wooden chairs and furniture may work there way closer to the heat source - during use or cleaning.
It's also possible that newspaper and even fire wood might get stacked too close to the stove or fireplace - or decorative wooden brooms or wreaths are hung around the hearth.
What about that Christmas tree drying out over there - is it too close to the hearth? It will literally explode into flames if it's too close! Keep it away from the hearth if your going to use the wood burner.
It's also important not to get all of that wrapping paper in or near the fireplace - it's a disaster waiting to happen - and you shouldn't burn the printed paper on purpose - it may give off toxins in the smoke.
The NFPA 211* recommends at least 36 inches of clearance from the front and sides of fireplaces and woodstoves to combustible materials.
Make sure that normal clearance to combustibles is maintained with the installation as well as to objects in the room. I would recommend that the tree be located even farther away - so that if it was knocked over or fell directly toward the heat source it would still be well over 36 inches away.
If you have a furnace in a storage area or utility room - it's equally important to keep all combustibles well clear of the furnace and it's vent pipe.
By maintaining clearances, and with regular servicing, you should enjoy many warm winter days near the hearth.
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* SOURCE : National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), An American National Standard, ANSI/NFPA 211 August 14, 1992 ; Table 8-6(a) Standard Clearances for Solid Fuel-Burning Appliances
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